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Tinsel Tote

Storing Ornament Hooks, Toppers and Small Parts

The hooks are not worth anything. Finding them in December is worth an hour, which is a better return than most things in this box.

By Scooter M.Published Last verified

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The short answer

Leave the hooks on the ornaments wherever the cell allows it. Put the tree topper in its own box or a divided cell with soft packing, never loose in a bin. Take every battery out of every decoration before it goes away. Everything else — spare bulbs, clips, fixings, stray hooks — goes in one small labeled box that lives inside the ornament container, not loose in the bottom of a tote.

Why the small parts decide how December goes

Nobody loses a Christmas tree. People lose the four wing nuts for the stand, the packet of spare bulbs, the good hooks, the clip that holds the topper on, and the little plastic adapter that came with the pre-lit section. Individually none of them is worth anything. Collectively they are the difference between decorating on the evening you planned to and making a trip to a hardware store on the way home.

Small parts also cause damage out of proportion to their size. Loose hooks in the bottom of a bin scratch painted ornaments and work into fabric. A battery left in a light-up figure can leak over a summer and take the contacts with it. A topper packed loose in a tote is the single most likely breakage in the whole collection.

Hooks: the counterintuitive answer

The instinct is to strip the hooks off, collect them in a bag, and start next year by hooking two hundred ornaments. The better answer, where the container allows it, is to leave the hook on the ornament as it goes into its cell. It costs nothing in January and saves an hour in December, and it removes the annual problem of two hundred hooks that have become one tangled mass.

It does not always work. A divided box with tight 3-inch cells can foul a hook, and a tray-and-lid box may not close over the raised hooks. In those cases, gather the hooks into a small rigid container — a lidded pot, a hardware box, a zip bag inside a rigid box — and put it in the ornament container rather than in a general bin.

Two practical points. Plain steel hooks rust in unconditioned storage and the rust transfers, so hooks belong in the house rather than in a garage. And this is the moment to throw away the bent ones: a bent hook will still be bent next December, and it will still be the one you pick up first.

The topper is the fragile object nobody plans for

A tree topper is tall, frequently glass or thin painted metal, usually hollow, and shaped with points that catch on everything. It is also, in most households, the single most sentimental item in the box. It does not fit a 3-inch ornament cell, it does not survive being packed loose, and it is the piece that people most often discover broken.

If the original box still exists, that is the correct container and nothing improves on it. If it does not, use a box with adjustable dividers and build a cell around the topper: the adjustable-divider format exists precisely for objects that do not match a grid. Pack the hollow of a star or a finial lightly with tissue so the walls are supported from inside, and put the whole thing at the top of the stack rather than at the bottom.

Do not wrap a fragile topper in newspaper for long-term storage. Newsprint transfers to painted and gilded surfaces over ten months. Plain tissue or acid-free paper costs very little and is the difference between a topper that comes out clean and one that comes out marked. The same reasoning, applied to the whole collection, is on storing fragile and glass ornaments.

Batteries: the one non-negotiable rule

Every battery comes out of every decoration before it goes into storage. Light-up villages, candle arches, musical figures, LED wreaths, the flickering candle in the window — all of them.

Alkaline cells left in a device for ten months can leak, and the discharge corrodes the contacts in a way that is usually not repairable at home. It is the most common way a decoration that worked perfectly in January is dead in December, and it is entirely preventable in about four minutes of work.

Bag the removed batteries and keep them out of the decoration box, or discard them if they have already had a season of use. A dead battery stored with a decoration is the worst of both outcomes: it takes up space and still has to be replaced.

One small box, inside the big one

What belongs in the small-parts box, and what does not
ItemWhere it goesWhy
Ornament hooksOn the ornaments, or a lidded potLoose hooks scratch and tangle
Spare bulbs for a current strandSmall parts boxWorthless separated from its strand
Tree topperOwn box or adjustable-divider cellTall, fragile, projecting points
Light clips and gutter hooksWith the lights, not hereBelong with the strands they install
BatteriesRemoved, bagged, stored apartLeakage destroys contacts over ten months
Stand bolts and wing nutsTaped to the standSpecific to the stand and unidentifiable later
Bent hooks, obsolete bulbsThrown awayThey cost space and never get used

The box itself should be small, rigid and labeled, and it should live inside the ornament container rather than in a general decorations bin. Small containers migrate to the bottom of large ones; a small box inside the box you always open first is a small box you will always find. The labeling system that survives an attic is on labeling so you find it next year.

Five minutes, in this order

  1. 1

    Pull every battery

    Go around the room before anything is packed. Every light-up piece, every musical figure, every window candle.

  2. 2

    Decide the hook policy per container

    Leave hooks on where the cells allow it. Where they do not, collect them into a lidded pot as you go rather than at the end.

  3. 3

    Pack the topper first, at the top

    Own box if it exists, adjustable cell with tissue if not. Nothing goes on top of it, in the container or in the stack.

  4. 4

    Throw the dead weight away

    Bent hooks, bulbs for strands you no longer own, dried sticky hangers, corroded clips. All of it costs storage and none of it gets used.

  5. 5

    Label the small box by contents

    Not 'bits'. 'Hooks, spare C7 bulbs, topper clip' is a label that answers a question in December.

The parts that belong with the lights instead

Light clips, gutter hooks, extension leads, timers and stakes should not go in the ornament small-parts box. They belong with the strands, because they are installed at the same time and by the same person on the same afternoon. Keeping them together is what makes a light run repeatable rather than a rediscovery every year — the argument, and where the hardware actually goes, is on storing Christmas lights tangle free.

What we cannot tell you

None of this is a product specification and no maker publishes anything about small parts, so treat the above as a system rather than as data. It is the part of a pack-down where the right answer is free, which is also why it is the part everybody skips. Our published method, including what we do and do not claim, is at how we pick.

What to buy for this

The products that answer the question above, with the manufacturer's published numbers and what each one costs you.

Simple Houseware Heavy-Duty Ornament Storage Box (128)

48 interlocking dividers with seven slots each. That is the only design here that lets you build a 6-inch bay for the finial without wasting the other 127 slots.

Published specifications

Box dimensions
25.5" L x 13" W x 13" HSimple Houseware listing, Amazon
Dividers
48 interlocking heavy-duty cardboard dividers, each with 7 slots, so compartments are adjustableSimple Houseware listing, Amazon
Default compartment
3" x 3" x 3"Simple Houseware listing, Amazon
Lid and handles
Dual-zippered fabric lid, reinforced handles with hook-and-loop wrapSimple Houseware listing, Amazon
Extra storage
2 rear pocketsSimple Houseware listing, Amazon

What it gets right

  • Adjustable slots are the whole game: pull two dividers and a 3-inch bay becomes a 9-inch bay for the tree topper
  • Published divider count and slot count, so you can work out your own layout before it arrives
  • Rear pockets take the hooks, which otherwise end up loose in the bottom scratching everything

What it costs you

  • Cardboard dividers, not plastic. They survive being lifted out, not being soaked
  • 13" of height means one layer of tall ornaments, not two stacked trays

Do not buy it if: Every ornament you own is a uniform 3-inch ball. The adjustability is the reason to buy this and you would not use it.

Sterilite 66 Qt. ClearView Latch Box

Clear walls and published interior dimensions of 19 7/8 by 13 3/8 by 12 7/8 inches. Clear is not a style choice in an attic -- it is how you avoid opening six bins to find the tree skirt.

Published specifications

Capacity
66 quartsSterilite product page
Outside dimensions
23 5/8" x 16 3/8" x 13 1/4"Sterilite product page
Inside dimensions
19 7/8" L x 13 3/8" W x 12 7/8" H at the bottomSterilite product page
Closure
Latching lidSterilite product page

What it gets right

  • 12 7/8 inches of interior height clears a 12.9-inch ornament cube with nothing to spare -- and Sterilite publishes the number so you can check
  • Latches, so the lid stays on when it is carried by the ends
  • Clear walls solve the identification problem without a labeling system

What it costs you

  • Clear plastic yellows with UV exposure, so this is an indoor bin
  • 66 quarts full of books is too heavy; full of tinsel it is fine. Volume, not weight, is what you are buying

Do not buy it if: The bin lives in a garage with a window. Opaque bins keep light off whatever is inside, and light is what fades ribbon and plastic.

Zober Christmas Ornament Storage Box (64)

A 12.9-inch cube for 64 ornaments. Two of these weigh less each than one 128 box, which is the argument for buying the smaller size twice.

Published specifications

Box dimensions
12.9" L x 12.9" W x 13.5" HZober listing, Amazon
Capacity
64 ornaments up to 3" acrossZober listing, Amazon
Material
600D Oxford tear-proof fabric over cardboard insertsZober listing, Amazon

What it gets right

  • A 12.9-inch footprint fits a standard closet shelf, which the 26.8-inch boxes do not
  • Two of these split the weight, so the trip down the ladder is safe with one hand free

What it costs you

  • Buying two 64s costs more than one 128 for the same ornaments
  • Still a fixed 3-inch grid

Do not buy it if: You have shelf space for a long box and would rather make one trip. The 128 is the cheaper way to hold the same collection.

Questions people ask

How do you store ornament hooks?
The fastest method is not to store them separately at all: leave the hook on the ornament when it goes into its cell, so each piece arrives at the tree ready to hang. Where that does not work, because the hook fouls the divider or the ornament sits in a tray, put the loose hooks in a small rigid box or a zip bag inside the ornament container rather than loose in a bin, where they work their way into everything.
Do ornament hooks rust in storage?
Plain steel hooks do, in a damp garage or an unheated basement, and rust marks transfer to whatever they touch. Two things prevent it: store hooks in conditioned space rather than in an outbuilding, and keep them in a closed container rather than loose in the bottom of a bin where condensation collects. Nothing you can buy makes a plain steel hook damp-proof.
How should a tree topper be stored?
In its original box if you still have it, and in a divided container with soft packing if you do not. A topper is the most fragile and most awkward object in the collection: it is tall, often glass or thin metal, and it has projecting points that catch on everything. It should never go loose in a bin and it will not fit a standard 3-inch ornament cell.
Should batteries be left in light-up decorations?
No. Remove every battery from every decoration before it goes into storage. Alkaline cells left in a device for ten months can leak and the discharge corrodes contacts beyond repair, which is how a working piece becomes a broken one over a summer in which nobody touched it. Bag the batteries separately, or discard them if they are near the end of their life.
What is worth keeping and what should be thrown away?
Keep spare bulbs that match a strand you still own, hooks in usable condition, and the fixings for anything modular. Throw away bent hooks, spare bulbs for strands you have replaced, dried-out sticky hangers and anything with corrosion on it. All of them cost storage space and none of them will be used, and sorting that out takes five minutes in January and thirty in December.

Sources