The short answer
Dry it completely, deflate fully, fold loosely, and bag the blower and stakes separately with a label naming the inflatable they belong to. Then a rigid container off the floor. The drying step is the whole job; everything else is tidying.
Why drying is the whole job
An inflatable is coated polyester with seams. It has spent six weeks outdoors through rain, snow and freeze-thaw, and there is moisture in the seams and in the fabric whether the surface feels dry or not.
Seal that into a bin in January and it has ten months at whatever temperature your garage reaches. Mildew grows in the seams, and on a coated fabric it stains rather than washing out. This is the single most common way an inflatable is ruined, and it is entirely preventable.
The most effective method is to run the blower with the inflatable up, indoors or in a garage with the door open. Moving air through the inside dries the seams from both sides, which laying it flat on a floor does not.
The method
- 1
Inflate it one last time and clean it
Mud, road salt and leaf stain come off far more easily on a taut surface. Plain water and a cloth; no solvents on coated fabric.
- 2
Let the blower run until it is genuinely dry
Hours for a dry season, a day or two after snow. Check the seams and the base, which dry last.
- 3
Deflate fully and detach the blower
Press the air out from the top down. A blower left inside a folded bundle is a rigid lump that creases the fabric around it.
- 4
Fold loosely
The fewest folds you can manage, and none of them sharp. Coated fabric cracks along a hard crease over time, and a crack does not seal.
- 5
Bag the blower, stakes and tethers
One bag per inflatable, labeled with which one. Stakes are the item most reliably missing next December.
- 6
Rigid container, off the floor
Rigid so the folded fabric is not crushed, off the floor so it is not sitting in garage-floor damp.
Sizing the container
Deflated inflatables are bulkier than they look, because loose folding uses more volume than tight folding — deliberately. A single large inflatable typically wants a 25 to 27 gallon bin to itself.
The published interior figures are what tell you. The Roughneck 25 gallon publishes 21.25 by 14.75 by 16.25 inches inside; the 27-gallon Stacker publishes 20 1/8 by 14 1/8 by 18 7/8. Both take a large loosely folded inflatable with the accessory bag beside it. Full figures on bins by capacity.
The rest of the outdoor set
Lit wireframe figures. These are rigid and awkward and do not fit anything. Wrap the bulbs in a towel or bubble wrap, keep the frame flat, and store them standing against a garage wall rather than trying to bin them. Nothing on the market fits a five-foot wireframe reindeer.
Stakes, tethers and sandbags. One bag per decoration, labeled. These are small, look identical and are universally lost, and the entire fix is a label.
Extension leads and timers. Coil each lead the way you would a light strand, and keep the outdoor-rated ones separate from indoor ones so you never accidentally use the wrong one outside. The winding method is on tangle-free light storage, and the exterior strands themselves are covered on outdoor light storage.
Where it goes
A garage is the natural home, and it is fine for coated fabric and plastic once dry. A shed is worse on every axis: less stable temperature, more moisture and more ways in for pests. An attic is workable but you are carrying a bulky bin up a ladder for no benefit.
Whichever it is, off the floor. Concrete wicks moisture and a bin sitting directly on it is the coldest, dampest spot in the room. The comparison is on attic versus garage versus basement.